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It is first in the world of fashion that Marcel Rochas will make a name.
In 1925 (he was then only 22 years old), he set up his first fashion company in Paris, place Beauvau. Soon, he will reign over the Parisian Couture and international become the "fashion of the youth". He will be the first to create matching jewelry and accessories for his models. His customers include many Hollywood celebrities which include, Carole Lombard, Marlene Dietrich and Mae West.
For actress Mae West, Marcel Rochas created a basque black chantilly. It seems that the forms of women have inspired the creation of the perfume bottle "FEMME".
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Marcel Rochas and American artist Mae West in 1934
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The headquarters of the Avenue Matignon (1931-1955) |
Perfumery activity really begins in 1936 with the launch successive "AUDACE", "AIR JEUNE" and "AVENUE MATIGNON", these fragrances were distributed exclusively in the Rochas’boutiques. They will be withdrawn from sale at the beginning of the war.
In 1944, Marcel Rochas founded the Rochas perfume company in collaboration with an unknown young man loving flavors: Albert Gosset. The company headquarters is located at 12 Avenue Matignon, while the plant is located in Asnières.
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The famous perfume "FEMME", a creation of Roudnitska Edmond, was launched the same year. Contained in a crystal bottle numbered and signed by Marc Lalique. He was dressed in black lace. This luxury fragrance was a success thanks to many international celebrities who agreed to subscribe for its launch.
Then follow the launch of "MOUSSELINE" (1946) showing the amphora bottle "FEMME" but dressed in gold lace, the "MOUCHE" (1948) dressed in turquoise lace (MOUCHE was the cat's name to Mr. ROCHAS), "LA ROSE"(1949) and "MOUSTACHE"(1949), the first perfume for men.
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"FEMME" : the first successful fragrance (1944)
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Moustache
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All these fragrances owe their creation to the talent of Edmond Roudnitska. For its part, Marcel Rochas continues along his activity of fashion designer and created in 1947, his famous "corset".
In 1953, Marcel Rochas decided to close her fashion house which is for him a job too important while he devotes his life solely to the design of perfumes. But he died suddenly in 1955, worn out by 25 years of hectic life and incessant work
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Hélène Rochas........ |
Hélène Rochas takes over the reins of company she held until 1971. In 1955, the headquarters of the company is permanently transferred rue François 1er in Paris, in the mansion that belonged to Marcel Rochas. Shop ready-to-wear there will emerge a little later.
Through the work of Albert Gosset and his "creation"team the perfume "MADAME ROCHAS" born in 1960, fragrance composed by Guy Robert (and re-orchestrated in 1982 by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse). The bottle is a replica of janusette eighteenth century in Baccarat crystal that Helene Rochas was discovered in a Parisian antique dealer. It is the fragrance that will propel the company to the first place of luxury perfumes in 1967.
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Madame Rochas perfume
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In 1969, the repeated success of the boom years leading the company to grow. This is a new production site Perfumes and Cosmetics was born in Poissy (in Yvelines), with part of the company's offices.
From 1970, the company "Rochas" begins to live many transformations : Pharmaceutical Group "ROUSSEL UCLAF" becomes the majority shareholder. Hélène Rochas sells it his shares in 1975, it was the turn of Albert Gosset to sell him shares and terminate his functions.
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Meanwhile, the pace of creation has not inflected: In 1969, Guy Robert created "MONSIEUR ROCHAS". The company recruits while Nicolas Mamouras perfumer for the future development of flagrances. He first creates "EAU DE ROCHE" renamed "EAU DE ROCHAS" in 1972 which became, in three years, the best selling product of French perfume. The company Rochas revived "AUDACE" but it will be removed from sales in 1978. Follow the launch of "MYSTERE" this same year "MACASSAR" in 1980, "LUMIERE" in 1984 and "BYZANCE" in 1987, very oriental fragrance which met with great success.
This will be launched in a bottle cobalt blue, a color that Marcel Rochas was beautiful and magical. A medallion, a symbol of the Rochas company was placed on a fuschia ribbon.
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Lumière
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Sample of Byzance
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Eau de Rochas (1972) emblematic perfume
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In 1987, Rochas knows a necessary expansion. The company will internationalize under the impulse of the German Group WELLA AG, specializing in hair products and cosmetics in the world by purchasing the shares of Roussel Uclaf, which makes Rochas its wholly owned subsidiary. At the head of the Rochas perfume, Laurent Normand (1988-1993), a defector from Chanel, who wants to give back to society an image younger and more dynamic, tries to regain the male customer by launching "GLOBE" in 1990.
In addition, the 90s marked the return of the company ROCHAS its original activity after 35 years of absence: Fashion. The Irish designer Peter O'Brien is chosen to create the collections of the brand. And from 1990 to 2002, will focus on designing a ready-to-wear stylish, impeccable and discreet.
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Tocade
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In 1993, Edda Wendig successor to Lawrence NORMAND as CEO of Parfums Rochas. The famous perfume "TOCADE" was launched in 1994 (the bottle will be a resumption of the bottle "FEMME" but adapted by Mansau. This one will be thinner with a neck and a pointy hat), followed by "FLEUR D'EAU" in 1996. "EAU DE ROCHAS" men appeared in 1993, 20 years after the famous female version.
1997: Creation of the COSMOPOLITAN COSMETICS holding (100% subsidiary of the WELLA Group), comprising 32 brands today, with a strong international reputation developed by its two companies, MUELHENS located in Cologne and ROCHAS SA in Paris.
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The German company MUELHENS is in charge of "general public" Brands, while Parfums Rochas develop and markets the "PRESTIGE" brand from the Group with talent and inspiration.
In a few years the creators of Rochas give rise to several well-known flagrances :
"BYZANTINE" in 1995, "TOCADILLY" in 1997, made in 1998 by Jacques Cavallier "Alchemy" will be defined as a sensual floral scent in a nice cool bottle elaborated by Serge Mansau. "ROCHAS MAN" in 1999, "AQUAMAN" in 2001, "AQUAWOMAN" (creator Michel Almeirac) and "ABSOLUTE" in 2002.
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Alchimie
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The year 1997 will see the departure of Edda Wendig's presidency Rochas, and its replacement by Alain Joly, the current CEO.
Finally, in 2003, WELLA AG was purchased by the American PROCTER & GAMBLE : The Parfums Rochas now belong to the American giant.
What progress since the creation of the fashion house Place Beauvau !
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Composition of "FEMME"
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